:root {
  --ink: #173a3d;
  --ink-deep: #0d2c31;
  --sand: #f2eadc;
  --paper: #fbf8f1;
  --cream: #fffaf0;
  --terracotta: #d9704a;
  --terracotta-dark: #b95335;
  --muted: #6f7e79;
  --line: rgba(23, 58, 61, 0.18);
  --pad: clamp(1.25rem, 5vw, 5.5rem);
  --serif: "Newsreader", "Iowan Old Style", "Palatino Linotype", serif;
  --sans: "DM Sans", Arial, sans-serif;
}

* { box-sizing: border-box; }
[hidden] { display: none !important; }
html { scroll-behavior: smooth; }
body {
  margin: 0;
  overflow-x: hidden;
  background: var(--paper);
  color: var(--ink);
  font-family: var(--sans);
  -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;
}
html.menu-open, body.menu-open {
  overflow: hidden;
  overscroll-behavior: none;
}
button, input { font: inherit; }
button, a { -webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; }
a { color: inherit; }
img { display: block; width: 100%; }
:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--terracotta); outline-offset: 4px; }
.site-header :focus-visible, .hero :focus-visible, .page-hero :focus-visible, .article-hero :focus-visible { outline-color: #f2d6b5; }

.skip-link {
  position: fixed;
  z-index: 1000;
  top: 0.75rem;
  left: 0.75rem;
  transform: translateY(-150%);
  background: var(--cream);
  color: var(--ink);
  padding: 0.75rem 1rem;
}
.skip-link:focus { transform: none; }

.site-header {
  position: absolute;
  z-index: 20;
  inset: 0 0 auto;
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: space-between;
  min-height: 5.5rem;
  padding: 0 var(--pad);
  color: white;
  border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.28);
}
.site-header.is-fixed {
  position: fixed;
  min-height: 4.5rem;
  color: var(--ink);
  background: rgba(251,248,241,0.92);
  border-color: var(--line);
  backdrop-filter: blur(16px);
  animation: header-in 350ms ease both;
}
@keyframes header-in { from { transform: translateY(-100%); } }
.brand {
  display: inline-flex;
  align-items: center;
  gap: 0.7rem;
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: clamp(1.2rem, 2.2vw, 1.55rem);
  text-decoration: none;
  letter-spacing: -0.02em;
}
.brand-sun {
  width: 1.15rem;
  aspect-ratio: 1;
  border: 1.5px solid currentColor;
  border-radius: 50%;
  box-shadow: 0 -7px 0 -6px currentColor, 0 7px 0 -6px currentColor, 7px 0 0 -6px currentColor, -7px 0 0 -6px currentColor;
}
.main-nav { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: clamp(1.25rem, 2.7vw, 2.5rem); }
.main-nav a, .saved-link {
  position: relative;
  display: inline-flex;
  align-items: center;
  min-height: 2.75rem;
  padding: 0.45rem 0;
  border: 0;
  background: none;
  color: inherit;
  font-size: 0.79rem;
  font-weight: 600;
  letter-spacing: 0.08em;
  text-decoration: none;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  cursor: pointer;
}
.main-nav a::after {
  content: "";
  position: absolute;
  inset: auto 0 0;
  height: 1px;
  background: currentColor;
  transform: scaleX(0);
  transform-origin: right;
  transition: transform 250ms ease;
}
.main-nav a:hover::after { transform: scaleX(1); transform-origin: left; }
.main-nav a[aria-current="page"]::after { transform: scaleX(1); }
.saved-link { display: flex; gap: 0.45rem; align-items: center; }
.saved-link span { display: grid; place-items: center; width: 1.4rem; aspect-ratio: 1; border: 1px solid currentColor; border-radius: 50%; font-size: 0.65rem; }
.menu-toggle { display: none; min-width: 2.75rem; min-height: 2.75rem; }

.hero {
  position: relative;
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  min-height: 100svh;
  overflow: hidden;
  background: var(--ink-deep);
  color: white;
}
.hero-image { position: absolute; inset: -4% 0; height: 108%; object-fit: cover; will-change: transform; }
.hero-shade { position: absolute; inset: 0; background: linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(5,28,32,0.8) 0%, rgba(7,37,41,0.45) 38%, rgba(7,34,39,0.05) 67%), linear-gradient(0deg, rgba(6,31,35,0.3), transparent 40%); }
.hero-content { position: relative; z-index: 2; width: min(37rem, 76vw); margin-left: var(--pad); padding-top: 4rem; }
.eyebrow, .section-index { margin: 0; font-size: 0.69rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.18em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.hero-kicker { opacity: 0; animation: rise-in 700ms 180ms ease forwards; }
.hero h1 {
  margin: 1.15rem 0 1.25rem;
  max-width: 100%;
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: clamp(4rem, 9.5vw, 9.5rem);
  font-weight: 400;
  line-height: 0.78;
  letter-spacing: -0.065em;
  opacity: 0;
  animation: rise-in 900ms 280ms cubic-bezier(.2,.8,.2,1) forwards;
}
.hero h1 em { display: block; padding-left: 0; color: #f2d6b5; font-weight: 400; }
.hero-copy { max-width: 29rem; margin: 0 0 1.7rem; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.84); font-size: clamp(0.95rem, 1.4vw, 1.08rem); line-height: 1.65; opacity: 0; animation: rise-in 700ms 500ms ease forwards; }
.hero-content .text-link { opacity: 0; animation: rise-in 700ms 620ms ease forwards; }
@keyframes rise-in { from { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(1.5rem); } to { opacity: 1; transform: none; } }
.hero-note { position: absolute; z-index: 2; left: var(--pad); bottom: 2rem; margin: 0; font-size: 0.65rem; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; opacity: 0.72; }
.hero-weather { position: absolute; z-index: 2; right: var(--pad); bottom: 1.5rem; display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 0.7rem; font-size: 0.72rem; line-height: 1.4; }
.hero-weather strong { display: block; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: 0.1em; }
.weather-sun { font-size: 1.7rem; color: #f5c16f; }

.section-pad { padding: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem) var(--pad); }
.intro { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 0.55fr 2.1fr 0.5fr; gap: 4vw; align-items: start; }
.section-index { padding-top: 0.45rem; color: var(--terracotta-dark); }
.intro-copy h2, .section-heading h2, .quick-guide h2 {
  margin: 0;
  max-width: 13ch;
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: clamp(2.7rem, 5.3vw, 5.5rem);
  font-weight: 400;
  line-height: 0.96;
  letter-spacing: -0.05em;
}
.intro-copy p { max-width: 46rem; margin: 2rem 0 0 auto; color: var(--muted); font-size: clamp(1rem, 1.4vw, 1.18rem); line-height: 1.8; }
.hand-note { margin: 1rem 0 0; color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.1rem; font-style: italic; line-height: 1.15; transform: rotate(5deg); }

.feature { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.6fr) minmax(19rem, 0.85fr); min-height: 46rem; background: var(--sand); }
.feature-image-wrap { position: relative; min-height: 42rem; overflow: hidden; }
.feature-image-wrap img { height: 100%; object-fit: cover; transition: transform 800ms cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1); }
.feature:hover .feature-image-wrap img { transform: scale(1.025); }
.image-caption { position: absolute; left: 1.5rem; bottom: 1.5rem; margin: 0; padding: 0.5rem 0.7rem; background: rgba(251,248,241,0.85); font-size: 0.62rem; letter-spacing: 0.1em; text-transform: uppercase; backdrop-filter: blur(6px); }
.feature-story { display: flex; flex-direction: column; justify-content: center; padding: clamp(3rem, 6vw, 6.5rem); }
.story-meta { display: flex; gap: 1rem; color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-size: 0.66rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.13em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.story-meta span + span { padding-left: 1rem; border-left: 1px solid currentColor; color: var(--muted); }
.feature-story h2 { margin: 1.3rem 0 1.5rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(2.65rem, 4.6vw, 5rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.95; letter-spacing: -0.045em; }
.feature-story > p { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.75; }
.story-actions { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; margin-top: 2rem; }
.text-link { display: inline-flex; gap: 0.75rem; align-items: center; width: fit-content; min-height: 2.75rem; padding: 0.4rem 0; border: 0; border-bottom: 1px solid currentColor; background: none; color: var(--ink); font-size: 0.77rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.08em; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; cursor: pointer; }
.text-link span { transition: transform 220ms ease; }
.text-link:hover span { transform: translateX(0.35rem); }
.text-link.light { color: white; }
.section-heading { display: flex; align-items: end; justify-content: space-between; gap: 3rem; margin-bottom: 4rem; }
.section-heading h2 { margin-top: 1rem; }
.filters { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: end; gap: 0.5rem; }
.filters, .jump-nav, .archive-nav {
  scrollbar-width: none;
  -ms-overflow-style: none;
  -webkit-overflow-scrolling: touch;
}
.filters::-webkit-scrollbar, .jump-nav::-webkit-scrollbar, .archive-nav::-webkit-scrollbar {
  display: none;
  width: 0;
  height: 0;
}
.filter { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 2.75rem; padding: 0.65rem 1rem; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 2rem; background: transparent; color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.72rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.07em; text-transform: uppercase; cursor: pointer; transition: 200ms ease; }
.filter:hover, .filter.is-active { background: var(--ink); border-color: var(--ink); color: white; }
.story-list { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.story-row { position: relative; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 3rem minmax(13rem, 0.9fr) minmax(18rem, 1.4fr); gap: clamp(1rem, 3.5vw, 4rem); align-items: center; padding: 2.4rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); transition: opacity 260ms ease, transform 260ms ease; }
.story-row[hidden] { display: none; }
.story-number { align-self: start; margin: 0; color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-size: 0.67rem; font-weight: 600; }
.row-image { height: 14rem; overflow: hidden; }
.row-image img { height: 100%; object-fit: cover; transition: transform 600ms ease; }
.story-row:hover .row-image img { transform: scale(1.045); }
.stories-more { margin-top: 2.5rem; margin-left: auto; }
.image-crop-top img { object-position: 65% 28%; }
.image-crop-sea img { object-position: 55% 70%; }
.row-copy h3 { margin: 0.7rem 0 0.8rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.85rem, 3vw, 3.25rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 1; letter-spacing: -0.035em; }
.row-copy p { max-width: 42rem; margin: 0 0 1rem; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.65; }
.empty-state { padding: 4rem 1rem; text-align: center; color: var(--muted); }

.route { position: relative; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 0.8fr 1.2fr; gap: clamp(3rem, 8vw, 9rem); overflow: hidden; padding: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem) var(--pad); background: var(--ink-deep); color: white; }
.route::before { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; background-image: radial-gradient(rgba(255,255,255,0.09) 0.7px, transparent 0.7px); background-size: 10px 10px; opacity: 0.25; }
.route > * { position: relative; z-index: 1; }
.light-index { color: #efaa84; }
.route-intro h2 { margin: 1.2rem 0 1.6rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 8rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.78; letter-spacing: -0.06em; }
.route-intro h2 em { color: #efaa84; font-weight: 400; }
.route-intro > p:not(.section-index) { max-width: 25rem; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.68); line-height: 1.7; }
.route-download { display: inline-block; margin-top: 1.5rem; padding: 0 0 0.5rem; border: 0; border-bottom: 1px solid currentColor; background: none; color: white; font-size: 0.75rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.1em; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; cursor: pointer; }
.route-download span { display: inline-block; margin-left: 0.8rem; transition: transform 200ms ease; }
.route-download:hover span { transform: translateY(0.25rem); }
.route-days { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 4rem); }
.day-label { margin: 0; padding-bottom: 1.1rem; border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.28); color: #efaa84; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.55rem; font-style: italic; }
.route-day ol { margin: 0; padding: 0; list-style: none; }
.route-day li { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 3.5rem 1fr; gap: 1rem; padding: 1.4rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.13); }
.route-day time { color: #efaa84; font-size: 0.68rem; letter-spacing: 0.08em; }
.route-day span { color: rgba(255,255,255,0.58); font-size: 0.83rem; line-height: 1.55; }
.route-day strong { display: block; margin-bottom: 0.2rem; color: white; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.18rem; font-weight: 400; }
.route-stamp { position: absolute; right: -1rem; bottom: -4rem; z-index: 0; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.035); font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 20rem; line-height: 1; transform: rotate(-8deg); }
.route-stamp small { font-size: 5rem; }

.guide-intro { max-width: 25rem; margin: 0; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.65; }
.guide-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.guide-item { min-height: 19rem; padding: 1.5rem clamp(1rem, 2vw, 2rem) 1rem 0; border-right: 1px solid var(--line); }
.guide-item + .guide-item { padding-left: clamp(1rem, 2vw, 2rem); }
.guide-item:last-child { border: 0; }
.guide-item span { color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-size: 0.66rem; }
.guide-item h3 { margin: 4.5rem 0 1rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.75rem; font-weight: 400; }
.guide-item p { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.91rem; line-height: 1.65; }
.guide-more { margin-top: 2.5rem; }

.topic-links .filter { display: inline-block; text-decoration: none; }

.guide-portals { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(18rem, 0.75fr) minmax(30rem, 1.25fr); gap: 7vw; padding: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem) var(--pad); background: var(--sand); }
.portal-heading h2 { max-width: 10ch; margin: 1rem 0 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(3rem, 5vw, 5.5rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.94; letter-spacing: -0.05em; }
.portal-list { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.portal-link { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 2rem 1fr auto; gap: 0.6rem 1.5rem; align-items: center; padding: 1.6rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); text-decoration: none; }
.portal-link > span { grid-row: 1 / 3; align-self: start; color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-size: 0.65rem; }
.portal-link strong { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.5rem, 2.6vw, 2.4rem); font-weight: 400; }
.portal-link em { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.82rem; font-style: normal; }
.portal-link b { grid-column: 3; grid-row: 1 / 3; font-size: 1.3rem; font-weight: 400; transition: transform 200ms ease; }
.portal-link:hover b { transform: translate(0.3rem, -0.3rem); }

/* Inner guide pages */
.page-shell { padding-right: var(--pad); padding-left: var(--pad); }
.page-hero { position: relative; min-height: min(82svh, 54rem); overflow: hidden; background: var(--ink-deep); color: white; }
.page-hero > img { position: absolute; inset: -4% 0; height: 108%; object-fit: cover; will-change: transform; }
.page-hero-shade { position: absolute; inset: 0; background: linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(5,28,32,0.82), rgba(5,28,32,0.32) 55%, rgba(5,28,32,0.08)), linear-gradient(0deg, rgba(4,24,27,0.48), transparent 45%); }
.food-hero > img { object-position: center 45%; }
.history-hero > img, .practical-hero > img { object-position: center; }
.page-hero-copy { position: absolute; z-index: 2; left: var(--pad); bottom: clamp(3.5rem, 8vw, 7rem); width: min(55rem, calc(100% - 2 * var(--pad))); }
.page-hero-copy .eyebrow { margin-bottom: 1.3rem; color: #f4d0ae; }
.page-hero-copy h1 { max-width: 11ch; margin: 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(4rem, 8.5vw, 8.5rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.82; letter-spacing: -0.06em; }
.page-hero-copy h1 em { color: #f2d6b5; font-weight: 400; }
.page-hero-copy > p:last-child { max-width: 35rem; margin: 1.8rem 0 0; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.8); font-size: clamp(1rem, 1.5vw, 1.16rem); line-height: 1.65; }

.jump-nav { position: sticky; z-index: 12; top: 4.5rem; display: flex; gap: clamp(1.2rem, 3vw, 3rem); align-items: center; overflow-x: auto; padding: 1rem var(--pad); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); background: rgba(251,248,241,0.94); backdrop-filter: blur(14px); }
.jump-nav span, .jump-nav a { flex: 0 0 auto; font-size: 0.67rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.1em; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; }
.jump-nav span { color: var(--terracotta-dark); }
.jump-nav a { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 2.75rem; color: var(--muted); }

.page-lead { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 0.55fr 2fr; gap: 6vw; padding-top: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem); padding-bottom: clamp(5rem, 8vw, 8rem); }
.page-lead h2, .places-heading h2, .sources h2 { max-width: 14ch; margin: 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(3rem, 5.8vw, 6rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.94; letter-spacing: -0.05em; }
.page-lead > div > p { max-width: 49rem; margin: 2rem 0 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: clamp(1rem, 1.5vw, 1.18rem); line-height: 1.8; }

.choice-grid, .taste-strip, .transport-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); padding-bottom: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem); }
.choice-item, .taste-strip article, .transport-grid article { min-height: 16rem; padding: 1.5rem clamp(1rem, 2vw, 2rem); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); border-right: 1px solid var(--line); }
.choice-item:first-child, .taste-strip article:first-child, .transport-grid article:first-child { padding-left: 0; }
.choice-item:last-child, .taste-strip article:last-child, .transport-grid article:last-child { border-right: 0; }
.choice-item span, .taste-strip span, .transport-grid span { color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-size: 0.67rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.12em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.choice-item h3, .taste-strip h3, .transport-grid h3 { margin: 3.8rem 0 0.9rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.8rem; font-weight: 400; }
.choice-item p, .taste-strip p, .transport-grid p { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.88rem; line-height: 1.65; }

.places, .local-spots, .walk-list, .table-guide, .parking-guide, .full-itinerary, .phrasebook { padding-top: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem); padding-bottom: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem); }
.places-heading { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 0.6fr 1.5fr; gap: 5vw; margin-bottom: 4rem; }
.places-heading > p:last-child { max-width: 32rem; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.7; }
.place-row { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 3rem minmax(18rem, 1.4fr) minmax(16rem, 0.7fr); gap: clamp(1.5rem, 5vw, 5rem); align-items: start; padding: 3rem 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.place-row:last-child { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.place-number { color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-size: 0.65rem; }
.place-copy h3 { margin: 0.75rem 0 1rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(2.8rem, 4.7vw, 5rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.9; letter-spacing: -0.04em; }
.place-copy > p:last-child { max-width: 48rem; margin: 0; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.75; }
.place-facts { margin: 0; }
.place-facts > div { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1rem; padding: 0.85rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); font-size: 0.73rem; }
.place-facts dt { color: var(--muted); }
.place-facts dd { margin: 0; text-align: right; }

.advice-band, .sights, .agenda-band, .season-guide, .heat-band { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 0.75fr 1.25fr; gap: 7vw; padding: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem) var(--pad); background: var(--ink-deep); color: white; }
.advice-intro h2, .sights-intro h2, .agenda-heading h2, .season-heading h2, .heat-title h2 { margin: 1.2rem 0 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(3.5rem, 6vw, 6.5rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.88; letter-spacing: -0.05em; }
.advice-intro h2 em { color: #efaa84; font-weight: 400; }
.advice-list article, .sight-list article { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 2.5rem 1fr; gap: 0.8rem 1.4rem; padding: 1.6rem 0; border-top: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.17); }
.advice-list article > span, .sight-list article > span { grid-row: 1 / 3; color: #efaa84; font-size: 0.65rem; }
.advice-list h3, .sight-list h3 { margin: 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.6rem; font-weight: 400; }
.advice-list p, .sight-list p { margin: 0; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.62); font-size: 0.87rem; line-height: 1.65; }

.sources { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 0.55fr 1.5fr; gap: 6vw; padding-top: clamp(5rem, 8vw, 8rem); padding-bottom: clamp(5rem, 8vw, 8rem); }
.sources > div > p { max-width: 40rem; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.7; }
.sources a { display: block; width: fit-content; margin-top: 0.8rem; color: var(--ink); font-size: 0.76rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.05em; text-underline-offset: 0.25rem; }

/* Articles */
.article-archive-hero {
  min-height: 31rem;
  display: flex;
  align-items: end;
  padding: 9rem var(--pad) 5rem;
  background: var(--ink-deep);
  color: white;
}
.article-archive-hero > div { width: 100%; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 0.55fr 1.45fr; gap: 6vw; align-items: end; }
.article-archive-hero h1 { max-width: 10ch; margin: 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(4rem, 8.5vw, 8.5rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.84; letter-spacing: -0.06em; }
.article-archive-hero h1 em { color: #f2d6b5; font-weight: 400; }
.article-archive-intro { max-width: 34rem; margin: 0; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.72); line-height: 1.8; }
.archive-nav { position: sticky; z-index: 5; top: 0; display: flex; gap: 0.65rem; overflow-x: auto; padding: 1rem var(--pad); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); background: rgba(251,248,241,0.96); backdrop-filter: blur(12px); transition: top 250ms ease; }
.site-header.is-fixed ~ main .archive-nav { top: 4.5rem; }
.archive-list { padding: 2rem var(--pad) clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem); }
.archive-row { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 3rem minmax(16rem, 0.85fr) minmax(20rem, 1.25fr); gap: clamp(1.5rem, 4vw, 5rem); align-items: center; padding: 2.5rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.archive-row:first-child { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.archive-row img { height: clamp(17rem, 28vw, 26rem); object-fit: cover; transition: transform 700ms cubic-bezier(.2,.75,.2,1); }
.archive-row:hover img { transform: scale(1.025); }
.archive-row-media { overflow: hidden; }
.archive-row h2 { max-width: 16ch; margin: 1rem 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(2.2rem, 4vw, 4.25rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.94; letter-spacing: -0.045em; }
.archive-row p:not(.story-number) { max-width: 40rem; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.7; }
.archive-empty { margin: 0; padding: 5rem 0; color: var(--muted); font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.8rem; }

.article-hero { position: relative; min-height: min(84svh, 58rem); overflow: hidden; background: var(--ink-deep); color: white; }
.article-hero > img { position: absolute; inset: -4% 0; height: 108%; object-fit: cover; will-change: transform; }
.article-hero-shade { position: absolute; inset: 0; background: linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(5,28,32,0.84), rgba(5,28,32,0.35) 63%, rgba(5,28,32,0.12)), linear-gradient(0deg, rgba(5,28,32,0.62), transparent 55%); }
.article-hero-copy { position: absolute; z-index: 2; left: var(--pad); bottom: clamp(3.5rem, 7vw, 6.5rem); width: min(70rem, calc(100% - (2 * var(--pad)))); }
.article-hero-copy .story-meta { color: #f2d6b5; }
.article-hero-copy .story-meta span + span { color: rgba(255,255,255,0.65); }
.article-hero-copy h1 { max-width: 13ch; margin: 1.2rem 0 1.5rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(3.7rem, 8vw, 8rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.84; letter-spacing: -0.06em; }
.article-hero-copy > p { max-width: 39rem; margin: 0; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.78); font-size: clamp(1rem, 1.5vw, 1.18rem); line-height: 1.7; }
.article-layout { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.45fr) minmax(14rem, 0.55fr); gap: clamp(4rem, 10vw, 10rem); max-width: 82rem; margin: 0 auto; padding: clamp(5rem, 9vw, 9rem) var(--pad); }
.article-body { min-width: 0; }
.article-intro { margin: 0 0 4rem; color: var(--ink); font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.8rem, 3.2vw, 3rem); line-height: 1.16; letter-spacing: -0.025em; }
.article-body h2 { margin: 4rem 0 1.3rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(2.5rem, 4.5vw, 4.5rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.95; letter-spacing: -0.045em; }
.article-body h3 { margin: 2.5rem 0 0.7rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.7rem, 2.7vw, 2.5rem); font-weight: 400; }
.article-body p, .article-body li { color: var(--muted); font-size: clamp(1rem, 1.25vw, 1.08rem); line-height: 1.82; }
.article-body a { text-underline-offset: 0.2em; }
.article-body ul { padding-left: 1.15rem; }
.article-body blockquote { margin: 3rem 0; padding: 1.5rem 0 1.5rem 2rem; border-left: 2px solid var(--terracotta); color: var(--ink); font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.7rem, 3vw, 2.5rem); line-height: 1.2; }
.article-aside { align-self: start; position: sticky; top: 6rem; padding: 1.8rem; background: var(--sand); }
.article-aside .section-index { margin-bottom: 1.4rem; }
.article-aside dl { margin: 0; }
.article-aside dl div { padding: 0.9rem 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.article-aside dt { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.68rem; letter-spacing: 0.1em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.article-aside dd { margin: 0.3rem 0 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.25rem; }
.article-aside p { margin: 1.2rem 0 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.78rem; line-height: 1.65; }
.article-numbered { list-style: none; margin: 3rem 0 0; padding: 0; counter-reset: article-step; }
.article-numbered > li { position: relative; counter-increment: article-step; scroll-margin-top: 6rem; padding: 2.3rem 0 2.3rem 4.5rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.article-numbered > li::before { content: counter(article-step, decimal-leading-zero); position: absolute; left: 0; top: 2.75rem; color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-size: 0.7rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.1em; }
.article-numbered h2, .article-numbered h3 { margin-top: 0; }
.article-place-image { margin: 1.5rem 0 1.8rem; }
.article-place-image > div { overflow: hidden; background: var(--sand); }
.article-place-image img { aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; object-fit: cover; filter: saturate(0.92) contrast(1.025); transition: transform 800ms cubic-bezier(.2,.75,.2,1), filter 500ms ease; }
.article-place-image:hover img { transform: scale(1.025); filter: saturate(1) contrast(1.02); }
.article-place-image figcaption { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1rem; padding-top: 0.65rem; color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.62rem; line-height: 1.45; letter-spacing: 0.06em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.article-place-image figcaption a { color: inherit; text-align: right; }
.place-map-link { display: inline-flex; gap: 0.5rem; align-items: center; margin-top: 0.25rem; padding: 0.5rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid currentColor; color: var(--ink) !important; font-size: 0.68rem !important; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.08em; line-height: 1.2 !important; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; }
.place-map-link span { transition: transform 200ms ease; }
.place-map-link:hover span { transform: translate(0.2rem, -0.2rem); }
.article-sources { margin-top: 5rem; padding-top: 2rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.article-sources h2 { margin-top: 0; font-size: 2rem; }
.article-sources a { display: block; margin-top: 0.7rem; color: var(--ink); font-size: 0.8rem; font-weight: 600; }
.article-related { padding: clamp(5rem, 8vw, 8rem) var(--pad); background: var(--sand); }
.article-related-head { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: end; gap: 2rem; margin-bottom: 2.5rem; }
.article-related h2 { margin: 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(2.8rem, 5vw, 5rem); font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: -0.045em; }
.related-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.related-card { display: block; padding: 1.5rem 2rem 0 0; border-right: 1px solid var(--line); text-decoration: none; }
.related-card + .related-card { padding-left: 2rem; }
.related-card:last-child { border-right: 0; }
.related-card span { color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-size: 0.65rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.1em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.related-card h3 { margin: 1rem 0 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.55rem, 2.6vw, 2.4rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.05; }
.next-guide { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr auto; gap: 0.5rem 2rem; align-items: center; padding: clamp(3rem, 6vw, 6rem) var(--pad); background: var(--terracotta); color: white; text-decoration: none; }
.next-guide span { font-size: 0.68rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.12em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.next-guide strong { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(2.4rem, 5vw, 5rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.9; }
.next-guide b { grid-column: 2; grid-row: 1 / 3; font-size: 2rem; font-weight: 400; transition: transform 200ms ease; }
.next-guide:hover b { transform: translateX(0.5rem); }

/* Food */
.taste-strip { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); }
.market-feature { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 8vw; padding: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem) var(--pad); background: var(--terracotta); color: white; }
.market-copy h2 { margin: 1.2rem 0 1.5rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(3rem, 5.5vw, 5.7rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.92; letter-spacing: -0.05em; }
.market-copy > p:not(.section-index) { max-width: 37rem; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.8); line-height: 1.75; }
.small-note { font-size: 0.75rem; }
.market-rhythm { align-self: center; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 4rem 1fr; }
.market-rhythm > span, .market-rhythm > p { margin: 0; padding: 1.4rem 0; border-top: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.28); }
.market-rhythm > span { color: #54271b; font-size: 0.69rem; }
.market-rhythm > p { color: rgba(255,255,255,0.72); font-size: 0.85rem; line-height: 1.55; }
.market-rhythm strong { display: block; color: white; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.35rem; font-weight: 400; }
.spot-row { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(8rem, 0.4fr) 1.4fr auto; gap: 2rem; align-items: center; padding: 2rem 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); text-decoration: none; }
.spot-row:last-child { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.spot-row > span { color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-size: 0.66rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.08em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.spot-row h3 { margin: 0 0 0.4rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.8rem, 3vw, 3rem); font-weight: 400; }
.spot-row p { max-width: 46rem; margin: 0; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.65; }
.spot-row b { font-size: 1.4rem; font-weight: 400; transition: transform 200ms ease; }
.spot-row:hover b { transform: translate(0.25rem, -0.25rem); }
.table-rules { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.table-rules article { min-height: 17rem; padding: 1.4rem 1.5rem 1rem 0; border-right: 1px solid var(--line); }
.table-rules article + article { padding-left: 1.5rem; }
.table-rules article:last-child { border: 0; }
.table-rules span { color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-size: 0.65rem; }
.table-rules h3 { margin: 3.5rem 0 0.8rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.5rem; font-weight: 400; }
.table-rules p { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.86rem; line-height: 1.65; }

/* History */
.history-line { padding-bottom: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem); }
.history-line article { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 0.5fr 1.5fr; gap: 4vw; padding: 2.2rem 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.history-line article:last-child { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.history-line time { color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-size: 0.72rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.08em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.history-line h3 { margin: 0 0 0.7rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.9rem, 3.4vw, 3.3rem); font-weight: 400; }
.history-line p { max-width: 50rem; margin: 0; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.7; }
.walk-feature { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.4fr 0.6fr; gap: 8vw; padding-top: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem); padding-bottom: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem); background: var(--sand); }
.walk-copy h2 { max-width: 12ch; margin: 1.1rem 0 1.5rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(3rem, 5.5vw, 5.8rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.92; letter-spacing: -0.05em; }
.walk-copy > p { max-width: 45rem; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.75; }
.walk-copy ul { padding-left: 1.2rem; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.8; }
.walk-stats { align-self: center; }
.walk-stats > div { padding: 1.5rem 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.walk-stats > div:last-child { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.walk-stats strong { display: block; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 2.4rem; font-weight: 400; }
.walk-stats span { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.73rem; }
.agenda-band { background: var(--terracotta); }
.agenda-heading > p:last-child { max-width: 30rem; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.72); line-height: 1.7; }
.agenda-list { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 0 2rem; }
.agenda-list article { padding: 1.4rem 0; border-top: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.25); }
.agenda-list time { color: #54271b; font-size: 0.68rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.08em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.agenda-list h3 { margin: 1rem 0 0.4rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.55rem; font-weight: 400; }
.agenda-list p { margin: 0; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.67); font-size: 0.83rem; line-height: 1.55; }
.agenda-band > .text-link { grid-column: 2; margin-top: 1rem; }
.itinerary-columns { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 6vw; }
.itinerary-columns > article > span { display: block; padding-bottom: 1rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.4rem; font-style: italic; }
.itinerary-columns ol { margin: 0; padding: 0; list-style: none; }
.itinerary-columns li { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 4rem 1fr; gap: 1rem; padding: 1.3rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.itinerary-columns time { color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-size: 0.67rem; }
.itinerary-columns p { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.84rem; line-height: 1.55; }
.itinerary-columns strong { display: block; color: var(--ink); font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.3rem; font-weight: 400; }

/* Practical */
.transport-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); }
.season-list { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 0 2rem; }
.season-list article { padding: 1.4rem 0; border-top: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.18); }
.season-list span { color: #efaa84; font-size: 0.68rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.08em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.season-list h3 { margin: 0.9rem 0 0.35rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.5rem; font-weight: 400; }
.season-list p { margin: 0; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.62); font-size: 0.84rem; line-height: 1.55; }
.parking-layout { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.25fr 0.75fr; gap: 8vw; }
.parking-rules article { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 2.5rem 1fr; gap: 1rem; padding: 1.4rem 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.parking-rules span { color: var(--terracotta-dark); font-size: 0.65rem; }
.parking-rules p { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.65; }
.parking-rules strong { color: var(--ink); }
.parking-note { align-self: start; padding: 2rem; background: var(--sand); }
.parking-note h3 { margin: 1rem 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 2rem; font-weight: 400; }
.parking-note > p:last-child { color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.65; }
.heat-copy { align-self: center; }
.heat-copy > p { max-width: 42rem; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.68); font-size: 1.05rem; line-height: 1.75; }
.heat-copy dl { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); margin-top: 2rem; }
.heat-copy dl div { padding: 1rem; border-top: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.2); border-right: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.2); }
.heat-copy dl div:last-child { border-right: 0; }
.heat-copy dt { color: rgba(255,255,255,0.5); font-size: 0.66rem; text-transform: uppercase; }
.heat-copy dd { margin: 0.6rem 0 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.4rem; }
.info-office { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 0.8fr 1.2fr; gap: 8vw; padding-top: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem); padding-bottom: clamp(6rem, 10vw, 10rem); }
.office-copy h2 { max-width: 10ch; margin: 1rem 0 1.8rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(3rem, 5.5vw, 5.5rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.92; letter-spacing: -0.05em; }
.office-copy > p:last-child { color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.8; }
.office-hours { align-self: end; }
.office-hours h3 { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.7rem; font-weight: 400; }
.office-hours dl > div { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1rem; padding: 0.85rem 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); font-size: 0.8rem; }
.office-hours dd { margin: 0; text-align: right; }
.office-hours > p { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.75rem; }
.phrase-list { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.phrase-list article { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 2rem; padding: 1.2rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.phrase-list p { margin: 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.5rem; }
.phrase-list span { color: var(--muted); }

.newsletter { position: relative; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 8vw; overflow: hidden; margin: 0 var(--pad) var(--pad); padding: clamp(4rem, 8vw, 7rem); background: var(--terracotta); color: #fff7ea; }
.newsletter::before, .newsletter::after { content: ""; position: absolute; width: 1.2rem; height: 100%; top: 0; background: radial-gradient(circle at 0.6rem 0.6rem, transparent 0.58rem, var(--paper) 0.62rem) 0 0 / 1.2rem 1.2rem repeat-y; }
.newsletter::before { left: -0.6rem; }
.newsletter::after { right: -0.6rem; }
.newsletter-copy h2 { margin: 0.9rem 0 1.3rem; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(3rem, 5.5vw, 5.7rem); font-weight: 400; line-height: 0.88; letter-spacing: -0.05em; }
.newsletter-copy > p:last-child { max-width: 30rem; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.77); line-height: 1.65; }
.signup-form { align-self: end; }
.signup-form label { display: block; margin-bottom: 1rem; font-size: 0.7rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.13em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.input-row { display: flex; border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.65); }
.input-row input { min-width: 0; flex: 1; padding: 1rem 0; border: 0; outline: 0; background: transparent; color: white; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.3rem, 2.3vw, 2rem); }
.input-row input::placeholder { color: rgba(255,255,255,0.5); }
.input-row button { border: 0; background: transparent; color: white; font-size: 0.72rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.08em; text-transform: uppercase; cursor: pointer; }
.form-note { margin: 0.9rem 0 0; color: rgba(255,255,255,0.65); font-size: 0.7rem; }
.form-note.is-error { color: #2f1611; }
.postcard-mark { position: absolute; top: 2rem; right: 3rem; width: 6rem; aspect-ratio: 1; display: grid; place-items: center; border: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.45); border-radius: 50%; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.4rem; font-style: italic; transform: rotate(12deg); opacity: 0.8; }

.footer { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr auto; align-items: end; gap: 2rem; padding: 3rem var(--pad); background: var(--ink-deep); color: rgba(255,255,255,0.72); }
.footer-brand { align-self: start; color: white; }
.footer > p { margin: 0; font-size: 0.78rem; }
.footer-links { display: flex; justify-self: end; gap: 1.5rem; }
.footer-links a { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 2.75rem; font-size: 0.72rem; text-decoration: none; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: 0.08em; }
.copyright { grid-column: 1 / -1; padding-top: 2rem; border-top: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.12); color: rgba(255,255,255,0.4); }

.toast { position: fixed; z-index: 100; right: 1.25rem; bottom: 1.25rem; max-width: calc(100vw - 2.5rem); padding: 0.85rem 1.1rem; background: var(--ink-deep); color: white; font-size: 0.78rem; transform: translateY(5rem); opacity: 0; transition: 280ms ease; pointer-events: none; }
.toast.is-visible { transform: none; opacity: 1; }

.reveal-ready .reveal { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(2rem); transition: opacity 700ms ease, transform 700ms cubic-bezier(.2,.75,.2,1); }
.reveal-ready .reveal.is-visible { opacity: 1; transform: none; }

@media (max-width: 900px) {
  .site-header { min-height: 4.5rem; }
  .hero-content {
    width: calc(100% - (2 * clamp(2rem, 7.25vw, 3.5rem)));
    margin-right: clamp(2rem, 7.25vw, 3.5rem);
    margin-left: clamp(2rem, 7.25vw, 3.5rem);
    padding-top: 3rem;
  }
  .hero-kicker { margin-bottom: 0; }
  .hero h1 {
    margin-top: 1rem;
    margin-bottom: 1.85rem;
    line-height: 0.82;
  }
  .hero h1 em { padding-left: 0; }
  .hero-copy {
    max-width: 31rem;
    margin-bottom: 2rem;
    line-height: 1.7;
  }
  .menu-toggle { position: relative; z-index: 22; display: block; width: 2.75rem; padding: 0; border: 0; background: transparent; color: currentColor; }
  .menu-toggle span {
    position: absolute;
    top: 50%;
    left: 50%;
    display: block;
    width: 1.65rem;
    height: 1px;
    background: currentColor;
    transform-origin: center;
    transition: transform 250ms cubic-bezier(.2,.75,.2,1);
  }
  .menu-toggle span:first-child { transform: translate(-50%, calc(-50% - 3.5px)); }
  .menu-toggle span:last-child { transform: translate(-50%, calc(-50% + 3.5px)); }
  .menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] { color: white; }
  .menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] span:first-child { transform: translate(-50%, -50%) rotate(45deg); }
  .menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] span:last-child { transform: translate(-50%, -50%) rotate(-45deg); }
  .main-nav {
    position: fixed;
    inset: 0;
    z-index: 21;
    display: flex;
    flex-direction: column;
    justify-content: center;
    align-items: flex-start;
    gap: 1.5rem;
    width: 100vw;
    height: 100dvh;
    min-height: 100svh;
    padding: max(5.5rem, env(safe-area-inset-top)) var(--pad) max(2rem, env(safe-area-inset-bottom));
    overflow-y: auto;
    background: var(--ink-deep);
    color: white;
    visibility: hidden;
    transform: translateX(100%);
    transition: transform 350ms cubic-bezier(.2,.75,.2,1), visibility 0s linear 350ms;
    overscroll-behavior: contain;
  }
  .main-nav.is-open { visibility: visible; transform: none; transition-delay: 0s; }
  .menu-open .site-header.is-fixed {
    animation: none;
    transform: none;
    backdrop-filter: none;
    -webkit-backdrop-filter: none;
  }
  .main-nav a, .saved-link { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 2.5rem; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: -0.03em; text-transform: none; }
  .feature { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .feature-image-wrap { min-height: 75svh; }
  .feature-story { min-height: 32rem; }
  .story-row { grid-template-columns: 2rem minmax(11rem, 0.8fr) minmax(16rem, 1.2fr); gap: 1.5rem; }
  .route { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .route-intro > p:not(.section-index) { max-width: 35rem; }
  .newsletter { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .signup-form { margin-top: 2rem; }
  .guide-portals { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .portal-heading h2 { max-width: 15ch; }
  .choice-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .taste-strip, .transport-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .choice-item:nth-child(2), .taste-strip article:nth-child(2), .transport-grid article:nth-child(2) { border-right: 0; }
  .choice-item:nth-child(3), .taste-strip article:nth-child(3), .transport-grid article:nth-child(3) { padding-left: 0; }
  .place-row { grid-template-columns: 2.5rem 1fr; }
  .place-facts { grid-column: 2; }
  .advice-band, .sights, .agenda-band, .season-guide, .heat-band { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .agenda-band > .text-link { grid-column: 1; }
  .market-feature { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .table-rules { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .table-rules article:nth-child(2) { border-right: 0; }
  .table-rules article:nth-child(3) { padding-left: 0; }
  .walk-feature { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .info-office { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .article-archive-hero > div { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 2.5rem; }
  .archive-row { grid-template-columns: 2rem minmax(13rem, 0.8fr) minmax(16rem, 1.2fr); gap: 1.5rem; }
  .article-layout { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .article-aside { position: static; }
}

@media (max-height: 620px) and (min-width: 681px) {
  .hero-content { padding-top: 2.75rem; }
  .hero h1 { margin-top: 0.5rem; margin-bottom: 0.75rem; font-size: clamp(3.5rem, 8vw, 5.25rem); }
  .hero-copy { margin-bottom: 0.4rem; line-height: 1.45; }
  .hero-note { display: none; }
}

@media (max-width: 680px) {
  .hero-content {
    width: calc(100% - 4rem);
    margin: 0 2rem;
    padding-top: 1.75rem;
  }
  .hero h1 {
    margin-top: 0.9rem;
    margin-bottom: 1.6rem;
    font-size: clamp(3.65rem, 18vw, 5.5rem);
    line-height: 0.84;
  }
  .hero h1 em { padding-left: 0; }
  .hero-copy { max-width: 22rem; margin-bottom: 1.8rem; line-height: 1.65; }
  .hero-note { display: none; }
  .hero-weather { right: 1.25rem; bottom: 1rem; }
  .hero-image { object-position: 58% center; }
  .intro { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1.5rem; }
  .intro-copy p { margin-top: 1.5rem; }
  .hand-note { justify-self: end; margin-right: 1rem; }
  .feature-image-wrap { min-height: 62svh; }
  .feature-story { padding: 3.5rem 1.25rem; }
  .section-heading { display: block; margin-bottom: 2.5rem; }
  .filters { justify-content: start; margin-top: 2rem; overflow-x: auto; flex-wrap: nowrap; padding-bottom: 0.5rem; }
  .filter { flex: 0 0 auto; }
  .story-row { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1rem; padding: 2rem 0; }
  .story-number { display: none; }
  .row-image { grid-column: 1 / -1; height: 17rem; }
  .row-copy { grid-column: 1; }
  .route { padding-left: 1.25rem; padding-right: 1.25rem; }
  .route-days { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .guide-intro { margin-top: 1.5rem; }
  .guide-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .guide-item { min-height: 17rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .guide-item:nth-child(2) { border-right: 0; }
  .guide-item:nth-child(3) { padding-left: 0; }
  .newsletter { margin: 0; padding: 4.5rem 2rem; }
  .postcard-mark { width: 4.5rem; right: 1.5rem; }
  .input-row { display: block; }
  .input-row input, .input-row button { width: 100%; }
  .input-row button { padding: 1rem 0; text-align: left; }
  .footer { grid-template-columns: 1fr; align-items: start; }
  .footer-links { justify-self: start; }
  .copyright { grid-column: 1; }
  .guide-portals { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 3rem; }
  .portal-link { grid-template-columns: 1.5rem 1fr auto; gap: 0.5rem 0.8rem; }
  .portal-link b {
    position: relative;
    width: 1.25rem;
    height: 1.25rem;
    font-size: 0;
  }
  .portal-link b::before {
    content: "";
    position: absolute;
    top: 0.18rem;
    right: 0.08rem;
    width: 0.58rem;
    height: 0.58rem;
    border-top: 1.5px solid currentColor;
    border-right: 1.5px solid currentColor;
  }
  .portal-link b::after {
    content: "";
    position: absolute;
    top: 0.61rem;
    right: 0.08rem;
    width: 1rem;
    height: 1.5px;
    background: currentColor;
    transform: rotate(-45deg);
    transform-origin: right center;
  }
  .page-hero { min-height: 78svh; }
  .page-hero > img { object-position: 58% center; }
  .food-hero > img { object-position: 58% center; }
  .page-hero-copy { left: 1.25rem; bottom: 3rem; width: calc(100% - 2.5rem); }
  .page-hero-copy h1 { font-size: clamp(3.6rem, 17vw, 5.5rem); }
  .jump-nav { padding-right: 1.25rem; padding-left: 1.25rem; }
  .page-lead { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1.5rem; }
  .choice-grid, .taste-strip, .transport-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .choice-item, .taste-strip article, .transport-grid article { min-height: 13rem; padding-right: 0; padding-left: 0; border-right: 0; }
  .choice-item h3, .taste-strip h3, .transport-grid h3 { margin-top: 2.5rem; }
  .places-heading { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1.3rem; }
  .place-row { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1rem; }
  .place-facts { grid-column: 1; }
  .place-copy h3 { margin-top: 0.5rem; }
  .advice-band, .sights, .agenda-band, .season-guide, .heat-band { padding-right: 1.25rem; padding-left: 1.25rem; }
  .sources { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1.5rem; }
  .next-guide { padding-right: 1.25rem; padding-left: 1.25rem; }
  .market-feature { padding-right: 1.25rem; padding-left: 1.25rem; }
  .spot-row { grid-template-columns: 1fr auto; gap: 0.7rem 1rem; }
  .spot-row > span { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
  .spot-row > div { grid-column: 1; }
  .spot-row > b { grid-column: 2; grid-row: 2; }
  .table-rules { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .table-rules article, .table-rules article + article { min-height: auto; padding: 1.5rem 0; border-right: 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .table-rules h3 { margin-top: 2rem; }
  .history-line article { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1rem; }
  .walk-feature { padding-right: 1.25rem; padding-left: 1.25rem; }
  .agenda-list, .itinerary-columns, .season-list { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .parking-layout { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .heat-copy dl { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .heat-copy dl div { border-right: 0; }
  .info-office { gap: 3rem; }
  .office-hours dl > div { display: block; }
  .office-hours dd { margin-top: 0.3rem; text-align: left; }
  .phrase-list article { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 0.35rem; }
  .article-archive-hero { min-height: 34rem; padding: 8rem 1.25rem 4rem; }
  .article-archive-hero h1 { font-size: clamp(3.8rem, 18vw, 5.8rem); }
  .archive-list { padding-right: 1.25rem; padding-left: 1.25rem; }
  .archive-row { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1rem; padding: 2rem 0; }
  .archive-row .story-number { display: none; }
  .archive-row img { height: 17rem; }
  .article-hero { min-height: 78svh; }
  .article-hero > img { object-position: 58% center; }
  .article-hero-copy { left: 1.25rem; bottom: 3rem; width: calc(100% - 2.5rem); }
  .article-hero-copy h1 { font-size: clamp(3.35rem, 15.5vw, 5.5rem); }
  .article-layout { padding-right: 1.25rem; padding-left: 1.25rem; }
  .article-numbered > li { padding-left: 3rem; }
  .article-place-image { margin-right: -1.25rem; margin-left: -3rem; }
  .article-place-image figcaption { display: block; padding-right: 1.25rem; padding-left: 1.25rem; }
  .article-place-image figcaption a { display: block; margin-top: 0.25rem; text-align: left; }
  .article-related { padding-right: 1.25rem; padding-left: 1.25rem; }
  .article-related-head { display: block; }
  .article-related-head .text-link { margin-top: 1.5rem; }
  .related-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .related-card, .related-card + .related-card { padding: 1.5rem 0; border-right: 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
}

@media (max-width: 360px) {
  .guide-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .guide-item, .guide-item + .guide-item, .guide-item:nth-child(3) { min-height: 12rem; padding-right: 0; padding-left: 0; border-right: 0; }
  .guide-item h3 { margin-top: 2.5rem; }
}

@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  html { scroll-behavior: auto; }
  *, *::before, *::after { animation-duration: 0.01ms !important; animation-iteration-count: 1 !important; transition-duration: 0.01ms !important; }
  .reveal-ready .reveal { opacity: 1; transform: none; }
  .hero-image { transform: none !important; }
}